Propagating Fig Trees: You Won't Believe How Easy & Fun It Is
- Ross the Fig BOSS
- Feb 20, 2023
- 17 min read
Updated: Jan 14
Want another fig tree? Don't want to spend the money on another? Is your family's heirloom fig tree in jeopardy?
Propagating Fig Trees
You may not know that fig trees are among the easiest species to propagate. In fact, fig trees have been traditionally propagated in orchards worldwide by simply burying branches.
When I was 14, my grandfather came by my childhood home holding a handful of 3 ft long branches. I said, “Grandpop, you can’t bring the outside in.” He replied, “Ross, don’t worry. Follow me out back.”
After searching for a good spot, he jammed the branches into the ground. I asked, “Are you going to tell me what’s going on?” That’s when it hit me—those sticks would grow into trees! I couldn’t believe it. How was that even possible?
Without that moment, this blog might not exist. That experience sparked my passion for growing fruit, and it’s one of the reasons I love fig trees so much. They’re not only delicious and rewarding to grow, but they’re also incredibly easy to propagate. In as little as three months, you can turn a branch into a fully rooted fig tree ready for planting.
In this article, I'll cover more than just how to root fig trees. There are countless methods for propagating fig trees—whether through seeds, grafting, layering, or rooting—and there’s always something new to learn about plant propagation. Before you know it, you’ll be hooked on these fascinating fruit trees.
As always feel free to subscribe to the monthly Fig Boss newsletter for more fig-related content like this:
And check out this beginner guide if you’re new to fig trees. You won’t believe how special they are: 20 Facts About Figs & Fig Trees You Probably Didn't Know
Let's get into it…
Table of Contents
Skip ahead to any area of propagation you're most interested in.
Growing Fig Trees From Seed
If you decide to try growing fig trees from seed, here’s how to do it properly:
Planting the Seeds: Use pots filled with moist, well-draining seed-starting mix. Plant the seeds on top of the soil, gently pressing them down to ensure good contact without burying them. Fig seeds can rot easily and need light to germinate.
Maintain Humidity: Cover the tops of the pots with a humidity dome or plastic wrap to keep the soil moist and prevent the seeds from drying out. You may need to periodically mist them with a spray bottle or hose. I love the Wonder Waterer for delicate seedlings.
Provide Warmth: Place the pots in a warm, sunny location where the temperature remains around 78°F. Consistent warmth is crucial for germination, which takes about 3 weeks.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but that 30-second Instagram and TikTok video you may have seen showing you how to propagate fig trees from seed is probably full of you know what. Fig trees are rarely propagated from seed for two very good reasons:
They Won’t Germinate:
If the fig fruit you take seeds from wasn’t pollinated, they won’t germinate. In most parts of the world, fig trees are not naturally pollinated because the fig wasp required for pollination only exists in specific regions, such as parts of California. Before buying seeds of a fig tree, make sure they’re the right species (Ficus carica) and confirm with the seller that the seeds were harvested from a pollinated fruit. Trust me, there are a lot of scammers selling to unsuspecting buyers.
The video below will show you how to hand pollinate them without needing the fig wasp in your area.
Fig Seedlings Won’t Be True-to-Type:
Fig trees grown from seed will not produce fruit identical to the parent tree. Unlike the other propagation methods I’ll mention in this article such as rooting, grafting, or layering, growing figs from seed does not yield clones of the mother tree. Instead, the resulting trees are genetically unique and may not produce high-quality fruit. To make matters worse, only 25% of your fig seedlings won’t require pollination in the future to ripen fruit at all.
Q: How long does it take to grow a fig tree from seed to harvest?
A: Unlike other fruiting plants, fig seedlings can produce fruit in the first, second, or third year after germinating. Keep pruning to a minimum and they’ll be more inclined to do so early.
Taking a Cutting from a Fig Tree for Propagation
Taking a cutting from a fig tree is the first step in propagating a new tree.
Here are some tips to help you take cuttings from your fig tree:
Timing Is Key: The best time to take fig cuttings is during winter when the tree is dormant. Hardwood cuttings taken during dormancy are less likely to dry out and are easier to handle compared to green softwood cuttings, which require more care, such as misting.
Select Young Healthy Branches: Look for branches that are at least 6–8 inches long and are thicker than the width of a pencil. The growth should be no more than 1 to 2 years old.
Label Your Cuttings: To avoid confusion, mark each cutting with a paint pen.
Store Cuttings Properly: If you’re not ready to root the cuttings immediately, wrap them in a damp paper towel and place them in two layers of plastic bags, leaving the bags 90% closed to allow slight air circulation. Store them in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator to keep them fresh until you’re ready to plant.
For a step-by-step guide on taking and rooting fig cuttings, check out the video below. It includes detailed instructions and tips to maximize your success rate in propagating fig trees.
Rooting Fig Cuttings
Unlike growing fig trees from seed, rooting fig cuttings is a surefire way to clone your favorite fig tree. It's also the most common method of propagation that's been used for 1000s of years. Did you know that the Romans would take fig cuttings with them wherever they conquered and plant them? Italian citizens immigrating to the US would hide cuttings in their socks.
Related: The Fig Tree: Exploring its Fascinating Fig Wasp, Pollination, History, Types of Figs & other Ficus
Their easy-to-root nature is directly responsible for how widespread Ficus carica is across the globe today.
With the advent of plastic pots, numerous propagation methods have emerged. You can start fig cuttings in pots, in water, or by planting them directly in your garden. I'll cover each method along with its pros and cons as well as common pitfalls I see as an educator who's helped 1000s of people with their fig trees.
Regardless of the method you choose, here are some quick tips for rooting fig cuttings:
For a fig cutting to successfully form roots, maintaining the right level of moisture is essential. Just like starting seeds, overly wet soil can cause the cutting to rot, while soil that is too dry will prevent root development.
Warmth is another critical factor. Fig cuttings, much like tomato, pepper, or squash seeds, need warm soil to thrive. Ensure the rooting environment remains above 70°F to promote root formation.
Light is not necessary during the initial rooting phase. However, once leaves begin to develop, providing unfiltered direct sunlight or using high-quality grow lights will significantly boost growth. Keep in mind that a sunny window alone typically won’t provide sufficient light for optimal development.
Start the rooting process when you have the right environment. For example, rooting them outdoors during the winter won't yield any results if it is too cold. If starting them indoors, don't waste your time if you don't set up a proper rooting environment.
For a step-by-step guide on rooting fig cuttings, check out the video below.
Rooting Fig Cuttings in Pots
After taking your fig cuttings, wrap the tops of them in parafilm wax by stretching and wrapping the wax around any portions of the cutting above the soil line. This helps retain moisture and protect the cutting.
Make a new cut on the bottom close to the bottom node and score the bottom of the cutting exposing the cambium and hardwood, promoting callus formation and root development.
Optionally, you can apply a rooting hormone like Clonex to encourage root development.
Premoisten a well-draining rooting medium like ProMix HP and add it to your pot.
Squeeze your rooting medium. If more than a couple of drops of water come out, it's too wet.
Plant the cutting in a one-gallon treepot, typically a four-inch by nine-inch pot, but a more traditional 6-7-inch container will work well also.
Label your pot. I like to cut strips off vinyl blinds marked with a pencil to create affordable tags.
To learn more about affordable tags for fig trees, click here.
Place the pot inside a produce bag, which helps trap humidity and maintain the ideal soil moisture.
Secure the bag with a rubber band, ensuring a tight seal around the top of the cutting and that 1 or 2 nodes are above the bag.
Using this rooting method, perfect soil moisture is maintained during the beginning phase of rooting preventing rot and mold, a growers' number one enemy. Transplanting is also unnecessary. This simplifies the overall process and increases the likelihood of successful rooting. Keep the cuttings in a greenhouse or suitable environment with a consistent temperature, and avoid watering them for at least a month.
Remove the bag. Once the new growth is growing strongly or hardening, that's a sign the roots are too. This could take 2 weeks or 3 months.
Fertilize and adjust the soil moisture.
Remove any figs that form.
To read more about rooting fig cuttings, click here.
Planting Fig Cuttings in Your Garden
Yes, rooting fig cuttings is often overcomplicated. You can just stick your fig cuttings straight into the soil, your garden, or a prepared well-draining bed. This method is what I call the “old Italian man way of propagating fig cuttings" inspired by my Grandfather.
Here's how:
Start by taking cuttings that are 1-3 ft in length. The longer the better
Score the bottom of the cutting, dip the end in rooting hormone, and bury the cutting as deep as you can, but allow at least a few nodes above the soil line.
Choose an area that’s going to be this tree’s permanent home. One that’s sunny, warm, and has well-draining soil.
During the rooting process, consider using shade cloth and Parafilm wax to keep the fig cutting from drying out.
You can also prepare a well-draining raised bed to directly plant your fig cuttings into. Filled with light and fluffy soil, fig trees will root easily and you’ll be able to dig them up in the summer or fall to transplant them elsewhere.
Rooting Fig Cuttings in Water
To ensure success when rooting fig cuttings in water, it’s important to change the water daily so that the submerged part of the cutting receives enough oxygen.
Here's how to root fig cuttings in water:
Take a healthy fig cutting that is at least 6 inches long.
Remove all but one or two leaves from the bottom of the cutting.
Place the cutting in a glass or jar filled with water.
Cover the top with a humidity dome.
Change the water every few days.
Keep the cutting in a warm and bright sunny window, or use strong full-spectrum grow lights indoors.
Once roots have developed, transplant the cutting into a larger pot or in the ground.
I would not recommend rooting fig cuttings in water. Here's why:
Once the cutting has developed roots, you must transplant it into the soil or another rooting medium to encourage further growth and development. Many growers report that the transplanting process is a more difficult transition when propagating them in water compared to other methods of rooting fig cuttings.
Common Pitfalls of Rooting Fig Cuttings:
Wrap the tops of your cuttings with Parafilm or Buddy Tape to avoid using a humidity dome and risking the death of your cutting when adjusting them to normal humidity levels.
Avoid up-potting or disturbing the tree while it's still at the beginning of the rooting process. The roots are easily damaged at this time.
Invest in high-quality lighting for indoor rooting setups. The sunlight coming through a window is not enough.
Make sure your rooting environment is preferably 75-80F, and keep the soil moisture consistently moist. Not wet and not dry. A heating mat can help considerably.
For thicker cuttings, I suggest that you pre-root them. Either wrap them in moist sphagnum moss or moist paper and place them in a plastic bag. Position them in a warm place until you see root initials then place them into a pot with your rooting medium.
Layering Fig Trees
Layering is the process of rooting a fig tree branch while it is still attached to the parent tree. This is a great way to propagate a tree that you don’t want to take cuttings from and to establish a larger tree in a shorter time.
Q: When Do I Layer Fig Trees?
A: Layering should be performed at the beginning of your growing season because the process takes about 1-3 months. You can also layer the new growth or the fruiting branches of your current growing season. Around the Summer solstice, I’ve noted a high likelihood of root formation when air layering, so try to layer your fig trees either early in the growing season before the summer solstice or around it.
Air Layering Fig Trees
The video below demonstrates the technique. Prepare to be amazed!
Air layering is the most common method of layering among hobbyist growers and is probably second to rooting in terms of how fig trees are propagated for its ease and almost guaranteed success of propagation. Like rooting, there's a lot of creativity around air layering. Did you know that you can air-layer the trunk of your fig tree?
Here's how to air-layer a fig tree:
Find a healthy branch on your fig tree that you want to propagate and make shallow cuts in the branch, creating a 1-inch girdle to remove the bark and cambium, to expose the white hardwood.
Apply rooting hormone to the girdle if you desire.
Wrap the branch with a container that's cut down the side or a plastic bag that is filled with moist peat moss or coco coir.
Tie off the bag or pot tight so it doesn't slide up or down.
Wrap the air layer with tin foil to keep it from drying out in the sun.
After 1-3 months, the air layer will have developed roots and can be cut off the parent tree and planted in a pot or in the ground.
Stool Layering Fig Trees
Stool layering is a technique that involves burying the base of a fig tree to encourage it to produce roots around the trunks of the tree.
Here's how to stool layer a fig tree:
Choose a fig tree early in the growing season (preferably one with many trunks or shoots coming from the soil line) that you want to stool layer. Continuous cutting to the soil line each winter encourages more shoots.
Keep the soil moist and wait for roots to develop.
Once the roots have developed and the tree has entered dormancy, dig up the fig tree to reveal the newly formed root system. Cut away each shoot or section of the fig tree that you want to propagate into a new fig tree.
Now that you have new fig trees, plant them where you’d like. Either in containers or straight into the ground.
Tip Layering Fig Trees
Tip layering is a technique that involves bending the tip of a fig tree branch to the ground and burying it to encourage it to produce roots. It also has other functions besides propagation like:
Expanding the root system of your fig tree quickly
Forcing your tree to grow in the direction of your choosing.
I explain both of these points in the video below:
Here's how to tip-layer a fig tree:
Find a healthy branch on your fig tree that you want to propagate and bend the tip of the branch to the ground.
Bury the tip of the branch under the soil.
Keep the soil moist and wait for roots to develop.
Once the roots have developed, cut the tip of the branch with the new roots from the parent tree and plant it in a pot or soil.
Below is a video of how I air-layered the trunk of my fig tree. A creative way to air layer:
Grafting Fig Trees
Grafting is a popular propagation technique that involves attaching a scion of a mature fig tree variety that you enjoy eating and growing onto a young rootstock that doesn't match your preferences.
Grafting provides a major advantage as you’re able to establish a fig variety of your choosing quickly because of the large and already established root system of the rootstock.
It is however critical to choose a healthy scion and a healthy rootstock when grafting. Using material that is severely infected with Fig Mosiac Virus (FMV) will be difficult long-term for your fig tree to overcome.
Here are some important grafting tips:
When grafting fig trees, it’s important to keep the graft union warm (at 78F), covered with wax to keep them from drying out, and preferably out of direct sunlight and heavy winds until they have had time to fully heal.
Grafting should be performed when your fig tree is awake and not dormant during the growing season. This can take several weeks, and you should monitor the grafts closely during this time to make sure they are developing properly.
Once the grafts have healed, and strong growth has followed, you can remove the unwanted growth from the rootstock to help establish the dominance of the new growth from the scion.
Don’t skip the step of staking the graft unions or supporting them when possible to avoid breakage from critters, fruit set, and heavy winds.
Here are some common grafting techniques used for fig trees:
Cleft Grafting Fig Trees:
Cleft grafting is a common method of propagating fig trees that involves inserting a scion into a cleft or split in the stem or branch of a rootstock. This method is often used when the scion and rootstock are of similar diameter and when thin branches of the rootstock are available to graft onto.
Here's how to cleft graft fig trees:
Select a branch of the rootstock and a scion with similar diameters.
Make a clean and level cut across the top of the rootstock.
Cut a slit in the middle of the rootstock and insert the scion by making cuts on the bottom of the scion in the shape of a “V” to create a wedge.
Be sure to match the cambium of both the scion and the rootstock to ensure that the two can fuse together and become one.
Secure the scion and the rootstock with a rubber band.
Cover the graft with Buddy Tape or Parafilm to keep the graft union from drying out.
Whip and Tongue Grafting Fig Trees:
A whip and tongue graft is similar to a cleft graft in that you need a similar diameter between the scion and rootstock and will all of the same steps. The difference is that you need to make cuts in both the scion and the rootstock to create a tongue.
As the cambium layers heal and fuse together, the interlocking "tongues" provide structural support to the graft union while also increasing the surface area of cambial contact. Because of this, it’s a grafting method that takes the cleft graft to a slightly higher level.
Bud Grafting Fig Trees:
Bud grafting is a method of propagating fig trees that involves grafting a single bud onto a rootstock. This method is often used when only thick scions are available.
Here's how to bud graft fig trees:
Choose a healthy rootstock and scion for your graft. The rootstock or the place you want to bud graft onto should be at least 1 inch in diameter.
Use a clean and sharp knife to make a small vertical T-shaped incision in the bark of the rootstock.
Cut a single bud from the scion, making sure to include a small piece of the bark and underlying wood.
Insert the bud into the incision in the rootstock, making sure that the cambium layers of the two plants are aligned.
Cover the graft with Buddy Tape or Parafilm to keep the graft union from drying out.
Bark Grafting Fig Trees:
Bark grafting is a method of propagating fig trees that involves grafting a scion onto the bark of a thick trunk or branch, rather than onto a thinner branch that can be matched in diameter. This method is often used when the rootstock is too thick for other types of grafting. The video above demonstrates this technique.
Here's a step-by-step guide to bark graft fig trees:
Choose a healthy rootstock and scion for your graft. The scion should have multiple buds and is a bit thinner than most scions you have available.
Make a clean and level cut across the top of the rootstock.
Make a vertical cut through the bark of the rootstock. About 1 inch in length from the top of the level cut.
Make a corresponding cut on the scion in the shape of a “V”, ensuring that the cut is smooth and straight.
Insert the scion into the slit in the rootstock between the bark and the hardwood, making sure that the cambium layers of the two plants are aligned.
Cover the graft with Buddy Tape or Parafilm to keep the graft union from drying out.
Propagating Fig Trees through Root Grafting
Root grafting is another method for propagating fig trees that involves grafting a scion onto the roots of another fig tree. Just like traditional methods of grafting, the scion and roots of your choosing fuse into one tree. Isn't that incredible?
This method is particularly useful when the desired scion is not compatible with the available rootstock. It’s also particularly advantageous because it shortens the time until an established fig tree is ready for transplanting or planting.
Here's how to root graft fig trees:
Choose a healthy, fresh, and living root for your graft. The root should be a similar diameter and thickness as the scion.
Just like the cleft graft, make a clean and level cut across the top of the rootstock.
Cut a slit in the middle of the root and insert the scion by making cuts on the bottom of the scion in the shape of a “V” to create a wedge.
Secure the scion and the roots with a rubber band.
Cover the graft union and the root with a clear plastic bag to create a humid environment.
Dividing Fig Trees
Harvesting suckers with roots from below the soil level can also be an effective way to propagate a new fig tree, a clone of the Mother tree. Suckers are shoots that grow from the base of the tree and often have their own set of roots.
Preparation: Remove mulch and clear the soil around the sucker. Locate the point where the sucker connects to the main root system.
Timing: The ideal time to propagate fig tree suckers is during the dormant period or just before spring arrives. This timing reduces stress on the new root system.
Potted trees: Choose an 8-inch folding pruning saw and carefully cut the sucker from the main trunk, ensuring a clean separation.
In-ground trees: Use a saw to sever the sucker from the main tree. Carefully dig around the base with a nursery spade or a hori hori to lift the sucker with its root system intact. It’s critical to dig up as much of the sucker’s root system as possible
Repotting: Plant the sucker in a 1 to 3-gallon-sized pot with well-draining soil. Water it thoroughly and pack the soil around the roots to remove air pockets. Lightly apply a well-balanced fertilizer for propagation that occurs during the active growing season.
Aftercare: Place the newly potted fig tree in the shade for a couple of weeks to allow it to harden off.
Propagating Fig Trees through Tissue Culture
Tissue culture is a propagation method that involves growing new fig trees from small pieces of tissue or cells. This method is often used in commercial nurseries or laboratories to produce large numbers of genetically identical plants.
Tissue culture or micropropagation can be a more advanced and expensive method of propagating fig trees, but it allows for the production of large numbers of genetically identical plants.
This method can also be used to produce disease-free plants, making it a popular choice for fig growers wanting to avoid FMV. However, tissue culture fig trees can take a long time to mature and perform the way that they should, so if you’re buying tissue-cultured fig trees, make sure that they are propagated from cutting after being tissue-cultured to become disease-free.
Comparing the Pros and Cons of Different Propagation Methods
As you now have learned, there are several methods for propagating fig trees, each with its own set of pros and cons.
Layering and grafting can net you a larger tree in a shorter period, but they have requirements before you can begin each. Grafting requires a rootstock while layering requires a larger tree to layer from.
Grafting with most methods like the Cleft graft only requires one node from the scion. That’s extremely efficient.
Layering is an almost guaranteed method of propagation that can help restore a sickly tree into a new healthy specimen.
Rooting is also efficient. Whether you’re just sticking your cutting straight into the soil or doing a fancy rooting method, the amount of wood required is only 6 inches. You will also have a tree on its own roots, rather than a grafted tree that relies on rootstock for its root system.
Digging up a sucker with roots already attached is the simplest propagation method and requires almost no technical skill that the other fig tree propagation methods do.
Growing from seed will not net you an exact copy or clone of the tree you harvested pollinated seeds from.
Tissue culture is too difficult for the average grower requiring a scientific background and expensive equipment.
