Fig Tree Size Matters: The Beauty of Dwarf Fig Trees & Taming the Growth of any Fig Tree

If you’ve spent any time searching the internet for advice on fig trees, you’ve likely been convinced that dwarf fig trees are the way to go if you have a small growing space or want to grow them in containers.

I have some bad news: approximately 95% of what you read out there is simply a regurgitation of incorrect information. The truth is that "dwarf" is often more of a marketing label than a biological reality. While a "standard" fig tree can technically reach heights of 40 to 70 feet in the perfect growing conditions, almost all of you reading right now will never see that.

In this article, I’m going to set the record straight on what actually makes a fig tree "dwarf," which varieties are actually worth your time, and why you might not even need a dwarf fig tree to begin with.

As an educator of fig trees, I'm commonly asked, "How large do fig trees get?"

Fig Tree Size

A mature 15-foot-tall and wide Hardy Chicago fig tree growing in Philadelphia's Southwark community garden.

As I said earlier, fig trees can reach 40-70 feet tall, but that doesn’t mean they will. Reaching those heights would require many years of cultivating the right fig variety in the ideal environment. There are so many factors influencing any tree’s inevitable size. For most of us, fig trees will top out at 20-30 ft and be almost equally as wide if left to their own devices, which admittedly is not a number most growers want to hear.

If you're new to growing plants or fig trees, don't worry. Every experienced grower knows that a plant's size is something you can—and should—control. Just know that fig trees can easily be maintained at 6x6 feet wide and tall, regardless of whether they're a dwarf fig variety.

I know everyone wants an easy fig tree. We all have jobs, limited time, but learning new skills like training or pruning plants, caring for them, and getting a deeper understanding of nature is what growing fig trees is all about.

Related: Why I Grow Fig Trees and Why You Should Grow & Plant Your Own

In this guide, we’re diving into the "Fig Boss" way of taming any tree, ensuring you get a manageable canopy without sacrificing the high-quality, jammy fruit we’re all after. More on that below.

First, let's look at the benefits of smaller trees and dwarf fig varieties.

Why Smaller Trees Are Better

• Large trees often require ladders for pruning and harvesting.

• Smaller trees are easier to care for, allowing for easier fruit harvesting, and effective netting to protect against birds and critters.

• Overgrown fig trees can block walkways and encroach on structures

• Additionally, excessive fruit on large trees can lead to unharvested figs, attracting birds, insects, and other animals, which can disrupt the balance of your yard and harm the quality of the reachable fruits.

For more fig-related information like this, feel free to subscribe to the monthly Fig Boss newsletter at the top of the page.

Dwarf Fig Trees

How do we define a dwarf fig variety? They're slower-growing, smaller trees at maturity that require little to no pruning, eventually topping out at roughly 8 feet.

Here are some other indicators of a dwarf fig tree:

1. Thinner Wood: Their branches have a thinner diameter.

2. Tighter Node Spacing: They feature closer spacing between nodes.

Let’s say your fig tree produces 15 leaves in one growing season. A faster-growing fig tree may have a 2-3 inch node spacing between every leaf. Multiply 15 by 3, that’s 60 inches or 5 feet of new growth. A slower-growing fig tree may have only a 1-inch node spacing, equalling 15 inches of new growth.

3. Smaller Leaves and Fruits: Their leaves and fruits are smaller in size.

4. Outward Growth & Branch Angles: They are more inclined to grow outwards rather than upwards, forming a mounding or bushy habit.

5. Maintain their restrained habit through successive generations of vegetative propagation.

Here are some dwarf or not-so-dwarf fig varieties:

Little Ruby

Little Ruby is a seedling of Hardy Chicago. It’s become one of my favorite figs for its short hang time and fruits that taste like dried figs.

One Green World, Raintree Nursery, & Wilson Bros Gardens all state that Little Ruby will grow to 4-6 feet.

These nurseries actually got it right. My Little Ruby tree has not surpassed 5 feet, even after 6-7 growing seasons growing in the ground with no to minimal pruning.

However, even a truly dwarf fig variety like Little Ruby can be encouraged to grow significantly larger from excessive winter damage or the wrong kind of pruning. I’ve seen two Little Ruby trees in person, hunting for new fig varieties in the Philadelphia area. Both are 10-12 feet in height. After close inspection of the canopy, you can see how it was pruned to encourage more growth. Pruning techniques and environmental conditions are ultimately more important than variety in determining a fig tree's final size.

Related: The Best Fig Varieties for Humid Climates: The Northeast, Midwest & South

Little Miss Figgy

Discovered by Michael Nobles in South Carolina in 2010, it originated as a naturally occurring branch mutation of the classic Violette de Bordeaux, also known as Majoam.

Frequently, branches or single buds located on a fig tree will mutate. In fact, I would argue that every bud on a fig tree is slightly different than another. How crazy is that? Sometimes these buds can mutate more than expected and will display very different characteristics than the Mother tree. In this case, the Mother tree is Violette de Bordeaux, which is one of the most well-studied fig varieties that you can commonly find today.

Related: Violette de Bordeaux Fig | Comprehensive Variety Review

However, if you research Violette de Bordeaux outside of this blog, you’ll see that Violette de Bordeaux and its synonyms are frequently thought of as dwarf fig trees. They are semi-dwarf. Their vigor is about average or even slightly above average. I certainly would not categorize them as dwarf varieties. In my limited experience with Little Miss Figgy, it wasn't different than Violette de Bordeaux; however, Little Miss Figgy could be slower growing, as advertised.

Related: Fig Synonyms | What is a Synonym & A List of Types or Categories and their many names

Fignomenal

This is a newly patented variety and is a mutation of Hardy Chicago.

According to Logee’s, the Fignomenal variety will grow to a mature size of 2+ feet, Territorial Seed mentions 20-28 inches, and Burpee states 3-5 feet.

My Fignomenal tree is already 5 ft tall after the second year of planting. However, I purposely pruned it in a way to encourage growth. Having said that, Fignomenal meets the criteria to be considered a dwarf fig variety. I also think it's about average in terms of taste when compared to the other 100+ named Hardy Chicago figs.

Related: Fig Synonyms | What is a Synonym & A List of Types or Categories and their many names

Slower-Growing Fig Varieties

Nerucciolo d’Elba & Verdino del Nord (VR)

Both Verdino del Nord (VR) and Nerucciolo d'Elba are dwarf Italian heirloom fig varieties. Unlike the others mentioned, they were not bred like Little Ruby was or are patented mutations. They were selected for their superior qualities and preserved and spread throughout the world over time naturally.

I was lucky enough to be one of the first growers to grow them in the United States. Eventually, I recognized their special attributes, making them suited for humid climates.

They both have short hang times and a fantastic ability to dry on the tree. Both of which lead to superior and consistent fruit quality when grown in humid places. Having said all of this, I would argue their dwarf classification is a negative quality, but if you want a dwarf fig tree, these two are in a class of their own for their superior eating experiences.

Other varieties: Pastiliere, Marseillaise, La Magdeleine, Ficcolino, Dalmatie, Brunswick, Florea, Teramo, Sefrawi, Longue d'Aout, & Blanche de Deux Saison.

Are Dwarf Fig Trees Preferred?

Contrary to what a lot of new fig growers think, owning a dwarf fig tree is not a necessity, nor is it my preference, and I don't think it should be yours. It's true, they don't demand extensive pruning knowledge; however, their lack of vigor can make establishment more challenging, especially for new growers.

Do I Need a Dwarf Fig Tree for Container Cultivation?

Fig trees flourish as container plants, with their success not being contingent on their vigor. The size of your chosen container and your training techniques will guide the eventual size of the tree. Since containers inherently limit root growth and the supply of water and nutrients, they naturally control the tree's size, negating the need for a dwarf fig tree.

While some might argue that dwarf fig trees in containers entail less root pruning, if this is a key concern, consider opting for grow bags or fabric pots, which perform air-pruning of roots.

When it comes to container cultivation, I would argue that standard or semi-dwarf fig varieties may be more beneficial than dwarf ones. Dwarf fig trees can prove more challenging to establish due to their weaker root systems. They also tend to mature later, producing inferior fruit in their early years, are more susceptible to root rot, and, in general, their performance in containers can be subpar.

To counter these issues, grafting dwarf fig varieties onto robust, vigorous rootstock is usually my recommendation for those growing in pots or containers.

The video below will give you critical and helpful growing tips for establishing fig trees in containers:

Don't forget to avoid these mistakes when growing fig trees - Growing Fig Trees: Avoid These 11 Season-Ending Mistakes

So, if there isn’t much value in dwarf fig trees, how do I learn how to control the size of my fig tree so that I don’t need one of the few varieties mentioned earlier in the article? Continue reading to find out how:

Understanding How Fig Trees Stay Smaller Without Dwarf Fig Varieties

As I said earlier in the article, every fig tree, no matter the variety, can be maintained at a six-by-six-foot size, but you have to learn how to prune. While dwarf fig trees help, you’re not limited to a handful of varieties if you want a smaller tree. 

Keep in mind that unless a fig tree is old and losing vigor, fig trees do not require pruning to be annually productive. Only if you want to keep them smaller will they need pruning. The problem is that most growers take on the challenge, prune their fig tree incorrectly, and the following year it grows to a size even larger than it was previously.

Related: What Happens If You Don’t Prune a Fig Tree?

Here’s the key:

Depending on how you prune your fig tree causes it to respond in very different ways.

Heading cuts: These are pruning cuts that shorten the branches and are a great way to encourage lots of growth the following year. Similar to light pruning or hard pruning, if you remove ⅓ or ⅔ of the growth from last year, the amount of new growth next year will be 3-6 feet, whereas, if you didn’t prune your fig tree and it didn’t take winter damage, it may only produce 1-3 feet of new growth the following year.

Some growers get a bit more extreme with their pruning without realizing it and prune away not just the new growth from that season, but also cut into older wood. Heading cuts are not limited to shortening the laterals, fruiting branches, or the growth from the current season. You can shorten the scaffolds and trunks of a fig tree. Generally, the lower you prune a fig tree back, the stronger the growth response will be the following season.

This kind of pruning is especially useful if you want a larger fig tree, your fig tree is old and needs to be revitalized, or if you want to set up the structure of your tree’s canopy quickly.

Eventually, you’ll need to prune your fig tree. It can’t stay small forever. Even dwarf fig varieties can highly benefit from pruning.

Therefore, I recommend a different style of pruning called thinning cuts. This is when you thin a fig tree’s canopy by removing an entire branch at its lowest point, leaving nothing behind (e.g., taking out an entire trunk, scaffold, or lateral). Heading cuts shorten branches, leaving growth behind. Pollarding is an example of how growers shorten the scaffolds or trunks to reduce their height, unknowingly causing an explosion of growth the following year.

Whereas, thinning cuts allow you to remove older wood like scaffolds or trunks without disrupting a fig tree’s growth habit. 

Keep in mind that the lower or harder we prune fig trees, the more they want to explode in growth the following season, but that’s only applicable if you’re shortening the branches, leaving growth behind. Similar to other fruit trees, this can create water shoots.

Often, a fig tree’s watershoots won’t fruit, and if they do, the fruit will ripen much later than normal and at a lower quality. This growth will want to grow profusely (partly because of the lower energy demand from a delay or lack of fruit set), even into the fall or winter, until frost sends a signal to your fig tree that it’s time to stop. This is due to a change in hormones within plants that is directly affected by pruning.

If you really want to understand pruning plants or the root cause, you need to learn about plant hormones.

Related: The Role of Plant Hormones in Fig Tree Pruning and Fruit Production

Fig Tree Pruning: How to Control a Fig Tree's Size for a Dwarf-like Effect

Don't be afraid of making drastic thinning cuts that thin your tree's canopy while also reducing its height; that's the key to a manageable fig tree. Simply by preserving just the top third of the current season’s growth (avoiding heading cuts), you'll achieve tighter node spacing and help the tree stop its growth by the fall or winter. Most importantly, preserving the highest points of your branches ensures a heavier fruit set, forcing your tree to be burdened by each fruit's energy demand.

Keep it Simple: 

1. If you aim to keep your tree smaller, focus on removing a single trunk (for bush-form trees) or a scaffold branch (for tree-form structures) each year.

2. This recycling process helps maintain a consistent height and size. 

3. With your eyes, follow the tallest portion of your tree back to its origin. At that location, make the cut flush with the lower growth, leaving no growth behind.

4. You can leave shorter branches behind. It's not required to remove an entire scaffold, let's say. You can simply trace back the tallest branches and cut at a lower point of your choosing. The key is to leave no buds behind that will create water shoots the following season.

After you've pruned away an old scaffold or trunk, new growth will spring up from the base of the tree. You can allow this new growth to take the place of the old trunk or scaffold, ensuring your tree stays at a manageable size while continuing to produce fruit.

One of the most overlooked ways of keeping a fig tree smaller is to encourage your scaffold development at a lower height. If your tree's trunk is 3 feet in length, your tree will be 3 feet taller than if the scaffolds started from ground level.

If you're interested in learning how to prune fig trees in pots, watch the helpful video below:

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Are fig trees better in pots or planted in the ground?

A: They're better when planted in the soil. The fruits will taste better, you'll harvest more of them, and your tree will require fewer inputs and care.

However, both methods have their pros and cons. Potted fig trees can be easier to manage in terms of size, as the pot restricts the root growth, which, in turn, controls the size of the tree. Moreover, pots allow for greater control over soil conditions and make it easier to move the tree indoors during colder months in temperate climates. However, fig trees in the ground can become larger and more productive, given they have more space to grow and access to nutrients. This decision largely depends on your available space, climate, and personal preference.

Q: What is the width of a fig tree?

A: Fig trees can spread out quite extensively if given the room to grow, typically equal to their height. However, with regular pruning, the spread of a fig tree can be controlled to a more manageable size of 6 to 10 ft.

Q: How much space does a fig tree need?

A: There isn't a one-size-fits-all answer, but first, figure out your goal. Here’s a handy chart to help you decide:

Q: What not to plant with fig trees?

A: Fig trees have a wide, shallow root system that competes for nutrients and water. Therefore, it's generally best to avoid planting other trees or large shrubs nearby that would compete for the same resources. Remove any other competition, like weeds and grasses, where possible.

However, companion plants that stay low and help create soil biodiversity can help build healthy soil. The best companion plant for fig trees is Catnip to help attract neighboring cats, which will keep birds, squirrels, and rodents at bay from attacking your fig tree.

Q: Do you need two fig trees to get fruit?

A: No, you do not need two fig trees to get fruit. Fig trees are self-fertile, meaning they can produce fruit on their own without needing another tree for pollination. However, certain fig varieties that are classified as San Pedro or Smyrna can benefit from a specific wasp species for pollination.