Becane is a well-regarded French fig variety, popularized by Pierre Baud. Only in recent years have growers in the United States caught on to its high quality.
In Baud's new book "Figuiers Resistant Au Froid," he writes about the origin of Becane:
This variety, likely the result of spontaneous hybridization, comes from the famous collection of Professor Rivals in Toulouse. He selected and preserved it due to the high precocity of its autumn figs. This collection was recovered in 1980 by the Porquerolles Botanical Conservatory.
Becane produces figs with high fruit quality and good rain resistance. I imagine it will quickly become one of my favorite varieties.
Becane Fig Tree
Why choosing the right fig variety matters
Choosing the right fig variety can make all the difference in so many positive or even negative ways. A variety that is well suited to your climate and taste preferences will ensure that your getting the fig experience that you deserve.
It's heartbreaking when you put years of work into a tree to finally realize that it's just not suited to your location because it will rarely produce high quality figs and in some cases, may never produce fruit that's even edible!
Fig varieties are very location specific because they're so highly subjected to their environment while they're ripening. Unlike many other fruits, the fig can be destroyed in its final ripening stage. It's a soft fruit that can absorb water into its skin causing cracking, splitting, mold & fermentation all because the inside of the fruit gets exposed to the outside elements of nature.
An apple has a hard covering. A persimmon has a hard covering. Berries and other soft fleshed fruits are also susceptible to bad weather conditions, but they have a short window of time in which they're soft and ready to be picked. Figs can be soft hanging on the tree for 5, 10 or even 15 days!
How to choose the right fig variety for your climate
When choosing a fig variety, it's important to consider the climate in your area during the winter, summer and fall.
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Some fig varieties are more tolerant of cold weather and others can be grown in climates that have mild summers because of their reliable breba production or their early main crop harvest period.
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Others are better suited for humid climates because they don't need to hang as long on the tree and they have a skin that acts like a waterproof jacket. The water just slides right off.
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Others are better suited to warmer climates and have the ability to taste incredible even in 100-110F temperatures.
If you want fig variety recommendations, read through the description of each fig variety carefully, or better yet, don't be afraid to contact me. In your message, include your growing zone, location, annual rainfall, and how you want to grow them.
To read more about choosing the right fig variety, click here:
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Shipping Information & What You Will Receive
Fig cuttings are shipped USPS Priority. $10 for each order.
I will ship to anywhere in the US on Mondays. Tracking will automatically be sent to your email address.
For orders to Europe, please contact me prior to ordering.
When purchasing 1 order of the variety of your choosing, you are committing to buying 1 set of 3 cuttings. That's 36+ inches of wood per set of cuttings. Because I sell 1500 cuttings each year, I cannot offer you 1 or 2 cuttings from a particular variety. That would be too time-consuming. No exceptions.
This should also give you ample opportunity to at least successfully root at least 1 tree. 95% of the cuttings will be 12 inches or more in length and can be cut in half for potentially double the amount of trees or a total of 6 cuttings.
The photo of the cuttings in the listing is an example of what you will receive from this particular variety and is not the actual set of cuttings you will receive. Please contact me prior to ordering with any questions regarding any differences in size, caliper, and lignification. The varieties' genetics and my location are the main determining factors for those differences.
Keep in mind that the majority of the wood you'll be buying is from very healthy in-ground trees. This creates a lot of advantages when trying to establish your own tree. The cuttings have huge amounts of carbohydrates stored within and aren't severely infected with Fig Mosaic Virus (FMV).
I've spent many years and thousands of dollars to find the best fig varieties. There are 1000s of fig varieties in existence. I will not sell cuttings from fig varieties that shouldn't be perpetuated. I believe it's important to have fig ethics.
Fig Cutting Guarantee & Delivery Issues
My goal is to ship your order accurately and for it to arrive in good condition. If there's a delivery issue, please inform me with photos right away. I'll make it right.
Frequently, fig trees are labeled incorrectly by big nurseries. It's frankly irresponsible. They either don't know what variety they're growing or they made a mistake. In the rare event that I make a mistake, contact me with photos of the tree's ripe fruits cut in half. I guarantee that your fig tree is labeled correctly.
I also guarantee that the fig cuttings you receive will be those that I'd be delighted to receive myself. I am committed to offering only the most healthy, sizable, and from the most well-established fig trees from my collection.
If you have a special request, contact me so that I can determine if an accommodation can be made.
Handling, Storage, & Rooting Instructions
The cuttings will arrive in two layers of plastic that are partially sealed to allow for optimal storage. They can be stored this way in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator for up to a year. However, I would use them as soon as you can to ensure that they are as fresh as possible.
Before use or storage, consider lightly scrubbing the cuttings with water or soaking them in a 10% bleach solution. Let them air dry before rooting or storing. Keep in mind, I cannot clean 1500 cuttings nor do I clean them prior to personal use.
However, this will remove any pathogens, overwintering pests, and cosmetic debry. After taking cuttings, fig trees leak a white sap. If the sap is left to dry on the cuttings, it will dry into a black color with an oily appearance. This is not mold. As far as I can tell, it's purely cosmetic. However, white mold sometimes can be found on the surface of the leaf scars (where the leaf was attached to the branch). I do my best to remove any leftover leaf material, but some inevitably remain behind. Scrub lightly at these locations to remove any leftover leaf material and remove any small figs.
Rooting Instructions: A Hybrid of the Fig Pop and Direct Potting Methods
First, prepare the cuttings just as we would in the two-parent methods. Wrap them in parafilm by stretching and wrapping the parafilm around any portions of the cutting above the soil line. This helps retain moisture and protect the cutting. Scoring the bottom of the cutting exposes the cambium and hardwood, promoting callus formation and root development. Optionally, you can apply a rooting hormone like Clonex to further encourage rooting.
The next step involves planting the cutting in a one-gallon treepot, typically a four-inch by nine-inch pot, but a more traditional 6-7-inch container will work well also. Place a label with the cutting's details on a vinyl blind tag and insert it into the pot.
Then, place the pot inside a produce bag, which helps trap humidity and maintain the ideal soil moisture like the Fig Pop method would. Secure the bag with a rubber band, ensuring a tight seal around the top of the cutting and that 1 or 2 nodes are above the bag.
With this hybrid method, the right soil moisture and humidity are maintained, and the need for transplanting is eliminated. This simplifies the overall process and increases the likelihood of successful rooting. Keep the cuttings in a greenhouse or suitable environment with a consistent temperature, and avoid watering them for an extended period.
Additional tips: It is highly recommended that you wrap the tops of the cuttings with Parafilm or Buddy Tape. This way you can avoid the unnecessary step of using a humidity dome. I would also avoid up-potting or disturbing the tree while it's still at the beginning of the rooting process. Invest in high-quality lighting, make sure your rooting environment is preferably 75-80F, and keep the soil moisture consistently moist. Not wet and not dry. For thicker cuttings, I suggest that you pre-root them. Either wrap them in moist sphagnum moss or moist paper and place them in a plastic bag. Position them in a warm place until you see root initials and then pot them.Q: Do all fig varieties taste the same?
A: No, not all fig varieties taste the same. Does a Gala apple taste the same as a Granny Smith apple? Like apples and every other fruit, each fig variety has different flavors and textures.
Some figs are sweeter and juicier, while others are more acidic and taste like berries. Others taste like honey straight from the jar while some have the texture of jam, meat, or even cake! Yes, you read that right.
Q: Why do some fig varieties have different flavors, textures, shapes, colors, and sizes?
A: Fig varieties have different shapes, colors, and sizes because of their genetics. Just like us, our characteristics are largely determined by our genetics given to us by our parents.
We are also evolving, mutating, and changing constantly! Even if you can't see it, plants and fig trees are no different. They have evolved to adapt to different climates and conditions.
Take the Panache fig aka the Tiger fig for example. It's got stripes! This is what's called a rimada fig, which occurred from a chimera mutation. A single branch of a fig tree mutated and started to display different growing characteristics, variegated wood, and variegated figs.
Q: How big do fig trees get?
A: In the perfect scenario, fig trees can grow up to 40-70 feet. They can grow to be quite large and they typically grow quickly, but their size can be easily controlled through proper pruning. I recommend reading my detailed article on pruning and training. That way your fig tree can be maintained easily at 6-12 ft tall and wide.
Q: Are fig trees better in pots or ground?
A: Both methods have their pros and cons. Potted fig trees can be easier to manage in terms of size, as the pot restricts the root growth which, in turn, controls the size of the tree. Moreover, pots allow for greater control over soil conditions and make it easier to move the tree indoors during colder months in temperate climates. However, fig trees in the ground can become larger and more productive, given they have more space to grow and access to nutrients. This decision largely depends on your available space, climate, and personal preference.
Q: What not to plant with fig trees?
A: Fig trees have a wide, shallow root system that competes for nutrients and water. Therefore, it's generally best to avoid planting other trees or large shrubs nearby that would compete for the same resources. Remove any other competition like weeds and grasses where possible.
Q: Do you need two fig trees to get fruit?
A: No, you do not need two fig trees to get fruit. Fig trees are self-fertile, meaning they can produce fruit on their own without needing another tree for pollination. However, certain fig varieties that are classified as San Pedro or Symrna, can benefit from a specific wasp species for pollination.
Q: Can you grow a fig tree indoors?
A: Yes, fig trees can be grown indoors, providing fresh fruit and ornamental beauty to your home, but if given the option, don’t be afraid to move your fig tree outdoors for the spring, summer & fall.
Fig trees do require adequate sunlight, water, and proper care to thrive indoors. Miss any one of these crucial pieces to the puzzle and your tree will struggle or die like any other houseplant.
Q: How long for a fig tree to bear fruit?
A: Fig trees can bear their first fruits in only 6 months. The exact timing depends on the variety, conditions, and location. In their first year when your fig tree is grown from cutting, it’s likely that your tree will ripen its first fruits during that first growing season.
In terms of full fruit production, fig trees typically start bearing heavily within 3-5 years of planting.
