Grise de St. Jean (GdSJ) is a very good and underrated variety. It's widely grown in Europe (even commercially) and not nearly widely grown enough in the US. The figs are exquisite in flavor and texture. They dry easily and perform well in a wide range of climates.
It's also probably the second most beautiful fig and tree I grow. The foliage, the shape of the tree, and the figs are all stunning.
The figs ripen in the middle of the season and produce a limited, but great tasting breba crop. According to Baud, the leading expert on the variety, it's not a very hardy tree.
GdSJ has an unusual growth habit. The growth is more horizontal than vertical, which is a better form for capturing more sunlight.
This particular GdSJ I am offering is sourced from Figues du Monde and was named Loretta.
Grise de St. Jean (Loretta) Fig Cuttings - 3 Per Order
Why choosing the right fig variety matters
Choosing the right fig variety can make all the difference in so many positive or even negative ways. A variety that is well suited to your climate and taste preferences will ensure that your getting the fig experience that you deserve.
It's heartbreaking when you put years of work into a tree to finally realize that it's just not suited to your location because it will rarely produce high quality figs and in some cases, may never produce fruit that's even edible!
Fig varieties are very location specific because they're so highly subjected to their environment while they're ripening. Unlike many other fruits, the fig can be destroyed in its final ripening stage. It's a soft fruit that can absorb water into its skin causing cracking, splitting, mold & fermentation all because the inside of the fruit gets exposed to the outside elements of nature.
An apple has a hard covering. A persimmon has a hard covering. Berries and other soft fleshed fruits are also susceptible to bad weather conditions, but they have a short window of time in which they're soft and ready to be picked. Figs can be soft hanging on the tree for 5, 10 or even 15 days!
How to choose the right fig variety for your climate
When choosing a fig variety, it's important to consider the climate in your area during the winter, summer and fall.
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Some fig varieties are more tolerant of cold weather and others can be grown in climates that have mild summers because of their reliable breba production or their early main crop harvest period.
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Others are better suited for humid climates because they don't need to hang as long on the tree and they have a skin that acts like a waterproof jacket. The water just slides right off.
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Others are better suited to warmer climates and have the ability to taste incredible even in 100-110F temperatures.
If you want fig variety recommendations, read through the description of each fig variety carefully, or better yet, don't be afraid to contact me. In your message, include your growing zone, location, annual rainfall, and how you want to grow them.
To read more about choosing the right fig variety, click here:
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Shipping Information & What You Will Receive
Fig cuttings are shipped USPS Priority. $10 for each order.
I will ship to anywhere in the US on Mondays. Tracking will automatically be sent to your email address.
For orders to Europe, please contact me prior to ordering.
When purchasing 1 order of the variety of your choosing, you are committing to buying 1 set of 3 cuttings. That's 36+ inches of wood per set of cuttings. Because I sell 1500 cuttings each year, I cannot offer you 1 or 2 cuttings from a particular variety. That would be too time-consuming. No exceptions.
This should also give you ample opportunity to at least successfully root at least 1 tree. 95% of the cuttings will be 12 inches or more in length and can be cut in half for potentially double the amount of trees or a total of 6 cuttings.
The photo of the cuttings in the listing is an example of what you will receive from this particular variety and is not the actual set of cuttings you will receive. Please contact me prior to ordering with any questions regarding any differences in size, caliper, and lignification. The varieties' genetics and my location are the main determining factors for those differences.
Keep in mind that the majority of the wood you'll be buying is from very healthy in-ground trees. This creates a lot of advantages when trying to establish your own tree. The cuttings have huge amounts of carbohydrates stored within and aren't severely infected with Fig Mosaic Virus (FMV).
I've spent many years and thousands of dollars to find the best fig varieties. There are 1000s of fig varieties in existence. I will not sell cuttings from fig varieties that shouldn't be perpetuated. I believe it's important to have fig ethics.
Fig Cutting Guarantee & Delivery Issues
My goal is to ship your order accurately and for it to arrive in good condition. If there's a delivery issue, please inform me with photos right away. I'll make it right.
Frequently, fig trees are labeled incorrectly by big nurseries. It's frankly irresponsible. They either don't know what variety they're growing or they made a mistake. In the rare event that I make a mistake, contact me with photos of the tree's ripe fruits cut in half. I guarantee that your fig tree is labeled correctly.
I also guarantee that the fig cuttings you receive will be those that I'd be delighted to receive myself. I am committed to offering only the most healthy, sizable, and from the most well-established fig trees from my collection.
If you have a special request, contact me so that I can determine if an accommodation can be made.
Handling, Storage, & Rooting Instructions
The cuttings will arrive in two layers of plastic that are partially sealed to allow for optimal storage. They can be stored this way in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator for up to a year. However, I would use them as soon as you can to ensure that they are as fresh as possible.
Before use or storage, consider lightly scrubbing the cuttings with water or soaking them in a 10% bleach solution. Let them air dry before rooting or storing. Keep in mind, I cannot clean 1500 cuttings nor do I clean them prior to personal use.
However, this will remove any pathogens, overwintering pests, and cosmetic debry. After taking cuttings, fig trees leak a white sap. If the sap is left to dry on the cuttings, it will dry into a black color with an oily appearance. This is not mold. As far as I can tell, it's purely cosmetic. However, white mold sometimes can be found on the surface of the leaf scars (where the leaf was attached to the branch). I do my best to remove any leftover leaf material, but some inevitably remain behind. Scrub lightly at these locations to remove any leftover leaf material and remove any small figs.
Rooting Instructions: A Hybrid of the Fig Pop and Direct Potting Methods
First, prepare the cuttings just as we would in the two-parent methods. Wrap them in parafilm by stretching and wrapping the parafilm around any portions of the cutting above the soil line. This helps retain moisture and protect the cutting. Scoring the bottom of the cutting exposes the cambium and hardwood, promoting callus formation and root development. Optionally, you can apply a rooting hormone like Clonex to further encourage rooting.
The next step involves planting the cutting in a one-gallon treepot, typically a four-inch by nine-inch pot, but a more traditional 6-7-inch container will work well also. Place a label with the cutting's details on a vinyl blind tag and insert it into the pot.
Then, place the pot inside a produce bag, which helps trap humidity and maintain the ideal soil moisture like the Fig Pop method would. Secure the bag with a rubber band, ensuring a tight seal around the top of the cutting and that 1 or 2 nodes are above the bag.
With this hybrid method, the right soil moisture and humidity are maintained, and the need for transplanting is eliminated. This simplifies the overall process and increases the likelihood of successful rooting. Keep the cuttings in a greenhouse or suitable environment with a consistent temperature, and avoid watering them for an extended period.
Additional tips: It is highly recommended that you wrap the tops of the cuttings with Parafilm or Buddy Tape. This way you can avoid the unnecessary step of using a humidity dome. I would also avoid up-potting or disturbing the tree while it's still at the beginning of the rooting process. Invest in high-quality lighting, make sure your rooting environment is preferably 75-80F, and keep the soil moisture consistently moist. Not wet and not dry. For thicker cuttings, I suggest that you pre-root them. Either wrap them in moist sphagnum moss or moist paper and place them in a plastic bag. Position them in a warm place until you see root initials and then pot them.Step 1: Be present or make arrangements for delivery.
If possible, try to be at home when your plant is scheduled for delivery. If you are unavailable, consider coordinating with a neighbor who can receive the plant and place it in a shaded area until you can tend to it. This helps prevent the box from being exposed to direct sunlight for prolonged periods, which can overheat your trees.
Step 2: Unbox with care.
Open the box carefully to avoid accidentally damaging the plant. Use a pair of scissors or a box cutter to gently cut through the tape and packaging material. Be cautious not to cut too deep into the box, which may damage the plant inside. Carefully lift the plant out of the box, taking care to support the pot and root system as you do so.
Step 3: Remove protective materials.
Carefully remove any plastic wrap, tape, or other materials covering the top of the soil. Take your time during this step, as rushing may cause damage to the plant or soil.
Step 4: Water the plant.
Assess the state of the tree and the soil to determine if you should water the soil to help hydrate it after its journey.
Step 5: Adjust to local humidity.
Keep in mind that the humidity in your area may differ from that of my location. If you live in a drier climate, your fig tree may require some time to adjust to the lower humidity levels. To help with this adjustment, you can place the plant in a more humid area of your yard or frequently and gently mist the leaves to provide your fig tree with additional humidity.
Step 6: Gradually increase sunlight exposure.
To avoid shocking your fig tree with sudden exposure to sunlight and causing sunburn, place it in a shaded or partially shaded area for the first day. Over the next few days, gradually increase the amount of sunlight it receives. Start with four hours of light on the second day, then increase to six hours on the third day, and finally, move it to its permanent location with full sun exposure.
Step 7: Repotting, planting, & feeding.
I highly recommend repotting or planting your new fig tree after it is transitioned to your new location. In small containers, there are limited nutrients and water. To see the best results, each tree needs a larger space to grow in.
When transplanting, be careful not to damage the roots. I wouldn't tease them either. Turn the container upside down and gently allow the tree to slide out of the pot holding the rootball. Do not tug on the trunk or stem. Place it in a 3-10g sized container will well-draining soil. Feed and water well and consider adding mulch to the surface.
When planting, select a location that's warm, sunny, and well-draining. Consider creating a 1-2 ft high mound and playing around with other planting depths. Bury 1-4 inches of the trunk below the soil line to ensure winter protection. Mulch, add amendments, and water well after planting.
For more on fig tree care, click here:
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